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Archived Update Packs (for Ontario Rock Climbing: The Best Of Southern Ontario)
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MOUNT NEMO TURTLE WALL Note: Currently, the crag is closed due to noise issues. Stay tuned for updates. Install the Sloper Climbing app. To keep the topo unlocked for when the app becomes a paid model, sign up your email here. Click here for more information.
p. 42 #3A Peanut Butter Punch 5.6 – Climb blocky ledges left of Bei Tagelischt. EQ: James Walker
p. 46 Grim Thin Flake – Avoid. A large block has fallen taking a bolt with it.
p. 50 The Graduate. 70m not necessary, 60m is fine.
p. 58 #3A Unknown Crack 5.8 – The crack line above the tree on the ledge between Zoomba and The Charleston. Pins at the top with awkward and difficult to protection on the headwall.
p. 59 Cha Cha 8 bolts (excluding midway anchors)
p. 63 Come And Get It. Note: with Butt Clencher located right at RESCUE#30, Come And Get It is actually 3m right of RESCUE#30.
p. 63 #7A Butt Clencher 5.11c *** Start at RESCUE#30 and climb the messy rock to the large, flat roof left of Come And Get It. Mostly a one-move roof wonder that’s pre-clippable. Use a long sling below the roof to reduce drag. Route-setter: Karl. FA: Cameron Gore
p. 67 Grunt Big For Daddy is now retrobolted as #6 Big Bolts For Daddy 5.10b *** Start on a flaky crack and move through a thinner but interesting crux section. 8 bolts, 40 feet.
p. 68 Trad route Axolotl is more or less retrobolted #3 The Odyssey 5.10c **** Climb past a tree you’ll have no choice but to get intimate with to a burly haul fest to the finish. 65 feet 12 bolt plus anchors (quick shuts). Route-setter: Karl.
p. 68 #0E Tall Order 5.11d ** Bolted route immediately right of Guido, left of the HUGE dead tree halfway up. Shares the start with Catch As Catch Can. When you’re level with the base of the dead tree, follow a crimpy line left of the bolts while avoiding the crack. Contrived. 65 feet. 10 bolts plus anchors.
p. 68 #0D Catch As Catch Can 5.10c **** Bolted route immediately right of Guido, left of the HUGE dead tree halfway up. Shares the start with Tall Order. Climb up the tricky start that gives the route the lower grade to the base of the dead tree. Try to avoid using the tree but give in, then follow the adventurous crack laying back with partial body jamming. If you mostly climb in the gym, this route may feel tougher and awkward but it’s good for your technique. Avoid the loose blocks at bolt 3 and 4, as well as the loose chockstone at the top of the crack as you approach the anchors. 65 feet. 10 bolts plus anchors.
p. 68 #0C Nostalgia 5.11a *** The bolted route right of the huge dead tree halfway up. Hop on the sharp flake to start and follow messy cracks and flakes to the bulging face above. A potentially heartbreaking crux throw to a small pocket awaits you before the anchors. Great movement. Skipping the direct finish using The Hunchback drops the grade. 50 feet 8 bolts plus anchors. Route-setter: Karl.
p.68 #0B The Hunchback 5.10a *** Climb up chunky terrain to a dark overhanging arete where a solution pocket awaits you. Clear your headspace and pull through to easier terrain above. Believe it or not, the overhang direct is about the same difficulty as if you climb the face. Try to avoid going into the corner and using the tree. Use a long draw below the arete. Route-setter: Karl. 60 feet. 9 bolts plus anchors. FA: Kirby Schiemann
p. 68 #0A Revival 5.10b **** Right of The Hunchback. Start behind the tree, and take a delicate start minding the loose rock at the bottom. A tricky start with a tricky roof problem. Fun.
p. 83 Lord Tubbington – consensus grade is 5.12d
p. 84 #7A Sharp Tooth 5.11b **** – Climb through a series of bulges past the distinctive namesake hold to greet a potentially onsight-eliminating sequence just before the anchors. FA: Scott Chuback See FA video
p. 98 #9 Where is Waldo – 8 Bolts + anchors. A crux traverse under the first roof leads to a rest ledge. Shake up before the finale roof. Head right and have faith that you will find the merciful jug to gain the roof.
p. 106 #6 Air Jamaica – Significant rock fall has made this route more difficult, possiblye 5.12c/d
p. 108 #8 Renaissance Man – stiff for the grade
p. 121 Pickpocket has been chopped as it’s a historic route. It’s back to mixed now, with around 6 new bolts replacing the older ones. OG (original grade) 5.9
p. 131 Extra directions. From the boardwalk, it’s about 3-5 minutes to the junction for the climber’s side trail. If the trail descends, then you’ve gone too far.
p.133 “The Dude Gully” labeled in the Area Overview should be “The Fin Gully”
p. 145 #7B Fortune Teller 5.12c – Just left of Whoopee Cushion. 5 Bolts + Anchors. FA: Leslie Timms
Bolted and climbed a cool new route at The Swamp this week. ➡️ Fortune Teller 5.12c? It’s just left of Whoopee Cushion. Would love grade consensus, get on it! Also added a bolt and moved a bolt on Stihl Your Face, much more enjoyable now. That was the first route I ever bolted. Have fun! @arcteryx @sterlingrope @lasportivana @flashedclimbing @ontariorockclimbing #ontariorockclimbing #ontarioclimbing #firstascent #sportclimbing #rockclimbing #newroute #celebratewild
p.178 #1B 2020 Division 5.11b Bolted line left of Lucky. Divided in two, vertical tech bottom half leads to an overhanging upper half with larger holds. FA: Mike Penny, Mike Smythe
p. 179 #6B Hillary Crimpin 5.12b Bolted line two routes left of Prowject. Boulder problem leads to some thin slab and a “keep your shit together” middle. Move right up a series of roofs into and out of a hanging dihedral. FA: Mike Penny, Mike Smythe
p. 179 #6C Donald Pump 5.12b Bolted line left of Prowject. Difficult boulder problem to reach second clip followed by easier terrain to midway rest. Figure out how to get onto the easier overhanging wall and burn it to the anchors. Hero climbing! FA: Mike Penny, Mike Smythe
p. 185 Onsen – 9 bolts + anchors. The finish has a very awkward finish around a bush.
p.185 The Left Hand Of Memnoch – A critical block at bolt 3 has fallen off making the route substantially harder (5.11d). The route will likely be repaired.
p.189 Morning Star is actually around 50 ft. not 70ft.
p. 192 #3A Drunken Elephant 5.11d **** – Located just left of Last of the Mullhicans. Easy climbing leads to a pumpy roof. Super fun. FA: Mike Smythe (p.192)
p. 195 #5 Project is now Idle Hands 5.12b ***** Starts immediately right of Block And Tackle’s obvious crack line. Casual climbing to the second bolt. Move up the blank looking face to a heart shaped block under the roof. Move up and right through the roof and small corner and left back onto the upper face. Rest prior to a gymnastic upper section. FA: Mike Penney 7 bolts plus anchors.
p.195 New route right of #5 Project. #5A Seams Better 5.12b/c *** Technical thin climbing on crimps and gastons through the crux leads to easier climbing before a roof with a badass cut feet throw and a hold your shit together move to the anchors (i.e. runout). FA and equipped by Mike Smythe.
p. 203 Don’t have to cut out the coupon for the coffee. Just get Rachel to sign it.
p. 215 Headspace 5 bolts 50 feet
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I think one of the hardest things in route development is selecting a good name. Sometimes the process and the fun along the way dictates, and there’s no doubt what to call it. Sometimes I hear something clever that seems to fit, or write it down for future use. And sometimes nothing seems to fit and you choose a terrible, cliché name, like I did last year with this route. It took me way too long (3years) to commit to finishing this rig. When it was done, I was thrilled. Turned out okay. The name however, no so much. So terrible that friends would say “your route over there” rather than saying “Romancing the Stone”. Barf. In any case, doesn’t the first ascensionist get to decide on the name? Yes? Good we all agree. So with that, I’ll tell you why I’m changing it. It was a terrible name. Every other crag has a route with that name. And amongst friends, what started as Romancing the Stone evolved to “Romancing Mike Stone”, “Romancing Mike’s Dome” and finally “Bromancing Mike’s Bone”. Funny . So with that, I’m proposing a new name. “WORTH THE WEIGHT” Something said to me by a number of those who have touched the route. Not sure if I should be offended ♂️. Sometimes all you need is a little help from your friends. Thanks friends. . @paulko8b checking out the top of whatever the hell its called. . . #myfriendsaregreat #butdicks #climbing #climbing_photos_of_instagram #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #escalada #klettern #ontarioclimbing #ontariorockclimbing #sportclimbing #lionshead #ontario #climbers #romancingthestone #whatarefriendsfor #friends #climbing_worldwide #climbingculture
p.219 #1 Worth The Weight 5.13- **** – “Maybe next year is the year I’ll get fit and send my project.” We’ve all been there. Stick clip the first bolt and consider the second. Hard boulder problem leads to a jug out left and a shake. With difficulty, move your way right and enter the bottom of a fun technical dihedral. Conjure magic to eit the corner and catch a rest before some final trickery. (formerly Project) 10 bolts plus anchors
p. 220 #16 New Way Out 5.10a *** Left of Lost At Sea at the tip of the ledge. A balancy climb that serves as a base exit alternative. FA: Gracey Williamson 7+bolts
p. 223 #8 Waveguiding **** This route is two pitches, around 10 bolts per pitch, or one long pitch if you have a 40m (20 bolts/draws). You likely risk the rope getting snagged on a low tree if you do it one pitch. Pitch 2 anchors can be reached from the edge, but (better) rap anchors are 6m inland. Please help clean up the loose rock at the top by moving it well inland (say, the gully by the rap anchors). Bring a sturdy reusable shopping bag.
p. 226 #3 Mr. Bonjangles The “Mr. B” paint is extremely faint, almost gone. Please help clean up the loose rock at the top by moving it well inland (say 10m in away from the slope). Bring a sturdy reusable shopping bag.
p. 227 Windy City From The Ground. 11 bolts plus anchors. 100 feet. 30 Years Pitch One 8 bolts plus anchors. 60 feet.
p. 229 Lord Of The Flies/Flying Squirrel (more info). Access from the top. From Windy City, go climber’s left about 40 paces to a rope. Rope traverse along the top of the cliff to reach Lord of the Flies. Flying Squirrel is to the left in a cedar clearing.
p. 229 – #9A Independent Woman 5.11b – Right of Crucible. Climb the right side of the tree to start. Run out to first piece of gear (about 20 feet). Undercling the wet but solid roof, pull around the corner, then jam, layback, chimney to the top. Sparse gear in the chimney but it is easy climbing. You can reach right and clip bolts of Ghost if you feel skittish! The route tops out. Use anchors of Ghost for seconding and rappel. FA: Anna Pirko
p. 231 Five routes Right of You’ve Been Hibbed
The Safety Meeting Cracks – Click here for more information straight from Leslie Timms!
Most of the cliff requires a boat for belaying. The two right most routes can be belayed from the shore. The cracks are short but clean, steep and require a variety of jamming techniques. The gear placements are quite good and creative trad anchors can be built on the top for top-belays/lower/rappel. You can walk off the formation to climbers right. The routes were all done, ground up and it is safe to do so. Climbs are described from right to left.
#1 Risk Reward 5.10b – Start on the right most crack, on the shore. Boulder up the initial steep crack to a rest. Then enjoy varied cracks to the top. Belay off trad anchor, walk off. Standard rack. Optional #5 FFA: Leslie Timms, Dave Zieleniewski
#2 Gone Fisting 5.11a – Just left of Risk Reward is a left leaning crack. Traverse left ward (walk the plank) using thin hand jams to a rest. Head up towards the roof, build a safety nest and crush the crux. The name blows your on sight. Build trad anchor and walk off/lower. Standard rack to #3 BD FA: Leslie Timms, Dave Zieleniewski
#3 Safety Meeting 5.11c – The centerpiece of the wall. Follows angling cracks and seams to a large cedar tree at the top. Requires a boat for belaying. Standard thin rack. FA: Leslie Timms
#4 Victory Torch 5.10a – The first crack left of You’ve Been Hibbed. Requires a boat for belaying. Enjoy steep jams the entire way. Finish on anchor of You’ve Been Hibbed, clean and lower back to boat. Standard rack. FFA: Leslie Timms, Dave Zieleniewski
#5 Sea Legs 5.9+ – Follow the finger crack to a roof just left of Victory Torch. Pull the roof and follow crack to top. Trad anchor. Requires a boat for belaying.
FFA: Leslie Timms
p. 237 #3 Dandy The “D” paint is extremely faint. The route is the first opening to the climber’s left of Kiss Of The Spider Woman. Look for a lone bolt hidden under a small tree at the top.
p. 237 #4 Global Warming (more info) The best way to reach Global Warming’s anchors is to rappel past American Bucks’ anchors.
p. 234 Cumulus Wall. If you’re rapping in to lead the routes on the overhang finish routes (e.g. Cumulus), watch out for severe rope drag when clipping to rope into directionals. Ideally, the first climber going down can put in draws and use them as rappel directionals (best to skip the bolts that are deep under the overhangs). The second should unclip the rope from the directionals while the first holds the rope to guide the second to the station.
p. 238 Maneline and Making Waves have links on the hanging belay stations for rappeling to the ground routes (mostly Roaming Gypsies). You still need to leave tree anchors for the first rappel regardless.
p. 241 #1 Roaming Gypsies Additional information. The first bolt of the first pitch is quite high. Don’t try to rappel into the route from the lookout to put in draws – there will be too much friction to pull your rope and you will get stuck.
p. 241 Buccaneer 8 bolts 65 feet
p. 245 Surf Zone 7 bolts plus anchors.
p. 246 Plastic Victory Jug 7 bolts plus anchors
p. 253 Spirit In The Sky 6 bolts plus anchors. Scalphunter 6 bolts plust anchors.
p.255 Bolt counts Intergalactic Cantaloupes 8 bolts plus anchors. Watermelon Winers – 9 bolts plus cold shuts
p. 256 Ladyslipper Area (bolt count) 5.9 Skunks Do It In Tevas: 9 bolts (8 bolts + anchors); 5.10a Ladyslipper: 8 bolts ; 5.11d So! You Think You Know Kung-Fu?: 13 bolts; 5.11d Honey Badger: 12 bolts
p. 258 #12b – The Very Asian Variation 5.12a – Clip the first two or three bolts of Kung Fu and then branch left through little roof and onto great face climbing. Rock quality is too suspect to have a separate start and dictated bolt placements low. Use long runners on second and third bolt of Kung Fu. Ideal to have a long draw on the first bolt as you pull onto upper black face. Thanks Lucas Uchida for the ridiculous route name. Climbers and belayers should wear helmets on this wall. FA: Mike Penney
p. 258 Mixed Martial Arts is 5.10a OG, but you might find it more like 5.10d. FA: Davy Zieleniewski
p. 259 Weekday Warrior 8 bolts plus anchors, 1 permadraw for cleaning. The Apprentice 8 bolts plus anchors.
p. 278 #13 The Punisher (more info) – The new anchors feel shaky, but it’s due to the use of a very long bolt and has been tested to be solid.
p. 290 Two Eyed Monster and Diamond In The Rough order is reversed. Diamond is before Two-Eyed Monster.
p.293 Space Wall and Tower Crack is better approached from the South via the Bruce Trail, and to prevent damaging your car. Following the original driving directions, as Scenic Caves Road junctions with Tower Road, go south on Tower Road and stick left to Jackson Cove Road. As the road starts winding downhill, you will come to a large Bruce Trail parking lot on your left. This is the blue Jackson’s Cove Side Trail, but you won’t take this trail. Instead, take the white blaze trail further downhill on the other side of the road. About 20 minutes in, Tower Crack is visible from the Bruce Trail. If you come across a blue junction that leads to a lookout with a plaque dedicated to Griffith Williams, you passed Tower Crack by about 5 minutes and are at the top of Space Wall. Tower Crack is easy to miss as the trees have very faint yellow blazes.
Cape Croker has a substantial amount of new information. The Liberal Wall area has been overtaken by poison ivy and wasps and is pretty much unclimbable right now. The area climber’s left of Whoopee is also pretty dense.
Cleaned and climbed Medusa at Cape Croker, including some shiny new anchors! This beautiful splitter off width (left of the ladder) is an Ontario anomaly… looks like something from the Red River Gorge! Unsure if it ever gets climbed … definitely not recently as it had been taken back by nature. Takes 4s, 5s and 6s, invert or undercling the roof…super fun 5! . Thank you Matt S. for the photo (and the patience!) . . . . . #tradisrad #climbing #capecroker #offwidth #crackclimbing #getoutside #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #grippedmagazine #womenonlead #ontarioclimbing #climbing_is_my_passion #woolxinaction #celebratewild #somuchpoisonivy
p.298 Medusa 5.10c (more info) – Medusa has anchors, with a permadraw protecting the super wide section. Grade is 10c. Still needs 4s, 5s, and 6s to climb.
p.300 Shake The Disease 5.11b (0 stars) Route A just right of the ladder. Start from the ledge where a dirty, stiff crack awaits you. Not fun. 35 ft. 5 bolts
p.300 Secret Garden 5.10a *** Shared start with Garden Party. Nice exposure on an arete. From the shared start, traverse your way left under the roof to a big hueco. Commit as you move out and make your way to good holds up. Extend draws, especially bolt 6 before the hueco to reduce drag. 60 feet. 10 bolts + anchors.
p.300 Garden Party 5.9 ** Shared start with Secret Garden. From bolt 3 (a rope loop), go right to a ledge. Make friends with the tree, and bravely move off the ledge to the pocketed face above. Upper section is a bit overgrown. 10 bolts, 2 stars. 3 stars if cleaned up. 55 ft.
p.300 Insatiable Mandingo 5.10a ** Sport route at Paint E. Start on easy large flakes, move through a powerful but short-lived crux section, and make your way up to moderate slab. As usual, a bit overgrown at the top. 55 ft. 10 bolts.
p. 300 Unnamed 5.10b ** At Paint E2. Start on very precarious flakes and delicately move up to a ledge. Use a runner for draw 3. Good pocketed climbing to a dirty finish if you don’t take the direct overhanging hero’s route. 10 bolts. 60 ft.
p. 300 Victor/Victoria – may be gone.
p. 300 #9 Unknown 5.12 ** Start on a bouldery overhang and power your way past a sapling bush to the dark headwall. It’s possible to skip the first overhang with a not recommended runout to the left on a dirty flake. Stick clip the first regardless. 7 bolts 40ft.
p. 301 Pelee 5.10d **** Climb through a mossy finger crack (needs cleanup) to crimps at the bulge. Excellent movement on good holds as you head into steeper terrain. Save enough juice for the last move, and expect some people to be watching you from the lookout. 45 ft. 9 bolts